10 Tested, Proven Ways to Become Less Productive

Diane Buchanan • September 5, 2017

Let’s face it : while there is an abundance of articles on how to become more productive, there aren’t a lot on becoming less productive.

With that in mind, I decided to put this article together. While it’s helpful to focus on how to get more done every day, it can also be helpful to consider what may be holding you back.

Here are 10 surefire ways to become less productive every day.

 

Spend more time planning than doing

Some planning is essential. It’s pretty difficult to become more productive when you don’t step back to consider what you need to become more productive at doing. But past a certain point, the return on planning what you’re going to do with your time diminishes, and your productivity begins to suffer. Every minute you spend planning what to work on is one minute you don’t actually do work.

Multitask

It’s difficult to overstate this point: Multitasking is one of the absolute worst things you can do for your productivity. The fewer things you give your attention to in the moment, the more productive you become. If you want to become less productive, multitasking is a no-brainer.

Work on autopilot

 When you try to do too much at once, or you don’t plan your time well, you work on autopilot. This prevents you from working intentionally on what’s important. If you want to become less productive, don’t do any planning when you notice that you’re working on autopilot. Instead…

Work faster

 Working slower is for suckers. It gives you more space to think about your work, and to work smarter. If you want to become less productive, work as fast as possible—while multitasking, if you have the flexibility!

Take fewer breaks

Breaks—whether throughout the day, or a longer vacation—let you recharge. They allow your mind to wander so you can come up with better ideas and approach your work with more creativity. When you don’t step back from your work, your mind will take breaks for you. Needless to say, if you want to accomplish less each day, take as few of them as possible.

Pack your schedule

To the gills, if you can. If you want to become less productive, it’s crucial that you leave as little breathing room as possible for emergencies that may come up throughout the day. You don’t want any time to dive into the bigger projects you’re working on either. Make sure you agree to as many meetings as possible, and start a few of your own to “touch base” on all of the projects you’re working on!

Forget working out

Physical activity helps us destress, which is especially important today, when we face more stressors in our daily lives than ever before. When we don’t get enough physical activity, we are more likely to feel fatigued and burnt out. To become less productive, get as little physical activity as possible. And the instant you feel fatigued, don’t forget to load up on caffeine!

Get fewer than 8 hours of sleep

Sleep affects our mental performance in pretty much every measurable way. When we get less than 7.5 hours of it, our energy, focus, and productivity suffer. Sleep is one of the best ways to exchange your time for energy, which is precisely why you should get less than 8 hours of it if you want to become less productive.

Forget about nutrition

 Energy is the fuel that we burn over the course of the day to get stuff done. Not putting proper fuel into our body can shatter our energy and productivity. Processed foods that are ultra-high in sugar, salt, and fat can cause our energy and productivity to rollercoaster over the course of the day. But they’re also delicious, so don’t be afraid to crush a big bag of syrup-smothered waffles before work in the morning.

Cut yourself off from as many people as possible

Social interaction is also for suckers. Sure, it has been shown to make you happier, and more motivated and engaged than pretty much anything else. But you feel less productive while you’re doing it!

If you want to become less productive every day, make sure you give these things a try.

There’s a right and a wrong way to become less productive.
even if that means setting an intention to do absolutely nothing
This post was written by Chris Bailey, from A Life of Productivity. It was originally published here.

DIANE BUCHANAN
Mortgage Broker

LET'S TALK
By Diane Buchanan October 22, 2025
Can You Afford That Mortgage? Let’s Talk About Debt Service Ratios One of the biggest factors lenders look at when deciding whether you qualify for a mortgage is something called your debt service ratios. It’s a financial check-up to make sure you can handle the payments—not just for your new home, but for everything else you owe as well. If you’d rather skip the math and have someone walk through this with you, that’s what I’m here for. But if you like to understand how things work behind the scenes, keep reading. We’re going to break down what these ratios are, how to calculate them, and why they matter when it comes to getting approved. What Are Debt Service Ratios? Debt service ratios measure your ability to manage your financial obligations based on your income. There are two key ratios lenders care about: Gross Debt Service (GDS) This looks at the percentage of your income that would go toward housing expenses only. 2. Total Debt Service (TDS) This includes your housing costs plus all other debt payments—car loans, credit cards, student loans, support payments, etc. How to Calculate GDS and TDS Let’s break down the formulas. GDS Formula: (P + I + T + H + Condo Fees*) ÷ Gross Monthly Income Where: P = Principal I = Interest T = Property Taxes H = Heat Condo fees are usually calculated at 50% of the total amount TDS Formula: (GDS + Monthly Debt Payments) ÷ Gross Monthly Income These ratios tell lenders if your budget is already stretched too thin—or if you’ve got room to safely take on a mortgage. How High Is Too High? Most lenders follow maximum thresholds, especially for insured (high-ratio) mortgages. As of now, those limits are typically: GDS: Max 39% TDS: Max 44% Go above those numbers and your application could be declined, regardless of how confident you feel about your ability to manage the payments. Real-World Example Let’s say you’re earning $90,000 a year, or $7,500 a month. You find a home you love, and the monthly housing costs (mortgage payment, property tax, heat) total $1,700/month. GDS = $1,700 ÷ $7,500 = 22.7% You’re well under the 39% cap—so far, so good. Now factor in your other monthly obligations: Car loan: $300 Child support: $500 Credit card/line of credit payments: $700 Total other debt = $1,500/month Now add that to the $1,700 in housing costs: TDS = $3,200 ÷ $7,500 = 42.7% Uh oh. Even though your GDS looks great, your TDS is just over the 42% limit. That could put your mortgage approval at risk—even if you’re paying similar or higher rent now. What Can You Do? In cases like this, small adjustments can make a big difference: Consolidate or restructure your debts to lower monthly payments Reallocate part of your down payment to reduce high-interest debt Add a co-applicant to increase qualifying income Wait and build savings or credit strength before applying This is where working with an experienced mortgage professional pays off. We can look at your entire financial picture and help you make strategic moves to qualify confidently. Don’t Leave It to Chance Everyone’s situation is different, and debt service ratios aren’t something you want to guess at. The earlier you start the conversation, the more time you’ll have to improve your numbers and boost your chances of approval. If you're wondering how much home you can afford—or want help analyzing your own GDS and TDS—let’s connect. I’d be happy to walk through your numbers and help you build a solid mortgage strategy.
By Diane Buchanan October 15, 2025
You’ve most likely heard that there are two certainties in life; death and taxes. Well, as it relates to your mortgage, the single certainty is that you will pay back what you borrow, plus interest. With that said, the frequency of how often you make payments to the lender is somewhat up to you! The following looks at the different types of payment frequencies and how they impact your mortgage. Here are the six payment frequency types Monthly payments – 12 payments per year Semi-Monthly payments – 24 payments per year Bi-weekly payments – 26 payments per year Weekly payments – 52 payments per year Accelerated bi-weekly payments – 26 payments per year Accelerated weekly payments – 52 payments per year Options one through four are straightforward and designed to match your payment frequency with your employer. So if you get paid monthly, it makes sense to arrange your mortgage payments to come out a few days after payday. If you get paid every second Friday, it might make sense to have your mortgage payments match your payday. However, options five and six have that word accelerated before the payment frequency. Accelerated bi-weekly and accelerated weekly payments accelerate how fast you pay down your mortgage. Choosing the accelerated option allows you to lower your overall cost of borrowing on autopilot. Here’s how it works. With the accelerated bi-weekly payment frequency, you make 26 payments in the year. Instead of dividing the total annual payment by 26 payments, you divide the total yearly payment by 24 payments as if you set the payments as semi-monthly. Then you make 26 payments on the bi-weekly frequency at the higher amount. So let’s use a $1000 payment as the example: Monthly payments formula: $1000/1 with 12 payments per year. A payment of $1000 is made once per month for a total of $12,000 paid per year. Semi-monthly formula: $1000/2 with 24 payments per year. A payment of $500 is paid twice per month for a total of $12,000 paid per year. Bi-weekly formula: $1000 x 12 / 26 with 26 payments per year. A payment of $461.54 is made every second week for a total of $12,000 paid per year. Accelerated bi-weekly formula: $1000/2 with 26 payments per year. A payment of $500 is made every second week for a total of $13,000 paid per year. You see, by making the accelerated bi-weekly payments, it’s like you end up making two extra payments each year. By making a higher payment amount, you reduce your mortgage principal, which saves interest on the entire life of your mortgage. The payments for accelerated weekly payments work the same way. It’s just that you’d be making 52 payments a year instead of 26. By choosing an accelerated option for your payment frequency, you lower the overall cost of borrowing by making small extra payments as part of your regular payment schedule. Now, exactly how much you’ll save over the life of your mortgage is hard to nail down. Calculations are hard to do because of the many variables; mortgages come with different amortization periods and terms with varying interest rates along the way. However, an accelerated bi-weekly payment schedule could reduce your amortization by up to three years if maintained throughout the life of your mortgage. If you’d like to look at some of the numbers as they relate to you and your mortgage, please don’t hesitate to connect anytime; it would be a pleasure to work with you.