How (Not) to Consolidate Debt

Diane Buchanan • March 2, 2017

By Sandi Martin of Spring Personal Finance.

The point: it doesn’t matter what method you use to pay off debt, or if you use any method at all. What matters is that you stop creating new debt.

It’s out there: the mathematically precise, strictly rational formula for paying off your three credit cards, small car loan, and fluid line of credit balance. It’s not too hard to calculate the most efficient way to allocate every dollar and wring the most interest-busting bang out of each buck.

If that doesn’t work for you – and let’s be honest, it often doesn’t  – there’s a psychologically motivating method that throws math out the window and concentrates on tickling your brainpan with the momentum of every dollar that’s paid off – like the eponymous snowball rolling down a hill.

Proponents of these two camps are territorial and permanently at odds. (I’m just spitballing here, but I imagine it has to do with not being able to live inside somebody else’s brain and see how it works, like so many other disputes.)

Frankly, I don’t care how you pay off debt, so long as you simultaneously stop creating more.

Enter debt consolidation. Often a polarizing bone of contention between the two camps, debt consolidation – for those three of you in the back of the room unfamiliar with the concept – is when a lender gives you the money to pay back all of your other debt that’s scattered across the country and pay them back instead. They win by getting a new loan on the books, and stealing market share from the competition. You win by bringing down your overall interest rate.

What’s to argue with, right?

This is what to argue with: there’s a teeny-tiny window of opportunity in which debt consolidation is a powerful tool to bring your debt-free date closer and eat vast chunks out of the total amount of interest you’ll pay. That window of opportunity is open for about half an hour, and when it closes, it’s so hard to reopen that it might as well be painted shut.

If from the outset you don’t commit to a payment that is equal to or more than the amount you were paying on your unconsolidated debt, and that will get your three credit cards, small car loan, and fluid line of credit paid off in less time than they were originally amortized for, then you’re not paying down your debt, you’re just moving it around.

If you don’t take a long, hard look at how you got into debt in the first place, and – from minute one of your newly consolidated life – take measured, calculated steps to not do it again, those credit card balances are going to creep back up again. You’ll find yourself in the same office, maybe even in front of the same banker, signing a new set of loan papers for a new consolidation loan three years down the road.

I began my career in banking in the heyday of debt consolidation lending. The amount of new unsecured dollars added to our lending portfolio was a huge component of our sales scorecard, and while the focus shifted to include a wider spectrum of  product sales after 2008, banks are still hungry for your debt consolidation dollars. *

Folks, I’ve seen a lot of debt consolidation train wrecks, and about five of them where due to circumstances beyond the borrower’s control. The other 7,256,219 were due to the window slamming shut, either because the borrower didn’t know or didn’t care about it.

I’d love to blame the bank for it (you know I would), but I can’t. Yes, the banker you sit across from has incentive to talk you into stupid stuff that’ll not only shut the window of opportunity, but nail it closed and board it up too. (“Increasing your cash flow” is a phrase that comes to mind.)

But down in the land of brass tacks, you just signed a loan to pay off other loans. If you weren’t thinking about how you got to this point at this point, when else are you going to think about it?

If it was important enough to you to take action, why isn’t it important enough to change your behaviour?

* They’d like those dollars to be in the form of a secured line of credit, though, and will sell you on the fact that you can consolidate again and again and again, without ever having to go back into the bank to do it.

This article was written by Sandi Martin of Spring Personal Finance and originally appeared on Spring the Blog here. 

DIANE BUCHANAN
Mortgage Broker

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By Diane Buchanan October 15, 2025
You’ve most likely heard that there are two certainties in life; death and taxes. Well, as it relates to your mortgage, the single certainty is that you will pay back what you borrow, plus interest. With that said, the frequency of how often you make payments to the lender is somewhat up to you! The following looks at the different types of payment frequencies and how they impact your mortgage. Here are the six payment frequency types Monthly payments – 12 payments per year Semi-Monthly payments – 24 payments per year Bi-weekly payments – 26 payments per year Weekly payments – 52 payments per year Accelerated bi-weekly payments – 26 payments per year Accelerated weekly payments – 52 payments per year Options one through four are straightforward and designed to match your payment frequency with your employer. So if you get paid monthly, it makes sense to arrange your mortgage payments to come out a few days after payday. If you get paid every second Friday, it might make sense to have your mortgage payments match your payday. However, options five and six have that word accelerated before the payment frequency. Accelerated bi-weekly and accelerated weekly payments accelerate how fast you pay down your mortgage. Choosing the accelerated option allows you to lower your overall cost of borrowing on autopilot. Here’s how it works. With the accelerated bi-weekly payment frequency, you make 26 payments in the year. Instead of dividing the total annual payment by 26 payments, you divide the total yearly payment by 24 payments as if you set the payments as semi-monthly. Then you make 26 payments on the bi-weekly frequency at the higher amount. So let’s use a $1000 payment as the example: Monthly payments formula: $1000/1 with 12 payments per year. A payment of $1000 is made once per month for a total of $12,000 paid per year. Semi-monthly formula: $1000/2 with 24 payments per year. A payment of $500 is paid twice per month for a total of $12,000 paid per year. Bi-weekly formula: $1000 x 12 / 26 with 26 payments per year. A payment of $461.54 is made every second week for a total of $12,000 paid per year. Accelerated bi-weekly formula: $1000/2 with 26 payments per year. A payment of $500 is made every second week for a total of $13,000 paid per year. You see, by making the accelerated bi-weekly payments, it’s like you end up making two extra payments each year. By making a higher payment amount, you reduce your mortgage principal, which saves interest on the entire life of your mortgage. The payments for accelerated weekly payments work the same way. It’s just that you’d be making 52 payments a year instead of 26. By choosing an accelerated option for your payment frequency, you lower the overall cost of borrowing by making small extra payments as part of your regular payment schedule. Now, exactly how much you’ll save over the life of your mortgage is hard to nail down. Calculations are hard to do because of the many variables; mortgages come with different amortization periods and terms with varying interest rates along the way. However, an accelerated bi-weekly payment schedule could reduce your amortization by up to three years if maintained throughout the life of your mortgage. If you’d like to look at some of the numbers as they relate to you and your mortgage, please don’t hesitate to connect anytime; it would be a pleasure to work with you.
By Diane Buchanan October 8, 2025
Thinking of Buying a Home? Here’s Why Getting Pre-Approved Is Key If you’re ready to buy a home but aren’t sure where to begin, the answer is simple: start with a pre-approval. It’s one of the most important first steps in your home-buying journey—and here's why. Why a Pre-Approval is Crucial Imagine walking into a restaurant, hungry and excited to order, but unsure if your credit card will cover the bill. It’s the same situation with buying a home. You can browse listings online all day, but until you know how much you can afford, you’re just window shopping. Getting pre-approved for a mortgage is like finding out the price range you can comfortably shop within before you start looking at homes with a real estate agent. It sets you up for success and saves you from wasting time on properties that might be out of reach. What Exactly is a Pre-Approval? A pre-approval isn’t a guarantee. It’s not a promise that a lender will give you a mortgage no matter what happens with your finances. It’s more like a preview of your financial health, giving you a clear idea of how much you can borrow, based on the information you provide at the time. Think of it as a roadmap. After going through the pre-approval process, you’ll have a much clearer picture of what you can afford and what you need to do to make the final approval process smoother. What Happens During the Pre-Approval Process? When you apply for a pre-approval, lenders will look at a few key areas: Your income Your credit history Your assets and liabilities The property you’re interested in This comprehensive review will uncover any potential hurdles that could prevent you from securing financing later on. The earlier you identify these challenges, the better. Potential Issues a Pre-Approval Can Reveal Even if you feel confident that your finances are in good shape, a pre-approval might uncover issues you didn’t expect: Recent job changes or probation periods An income that’s heavily commission-based or reliant on extra shifts Errors or collections on your credit report Lack of a well-established credit history Insufficient funds saved for a down payment Existing debt reducing your qualification amount Any other financial blind spots you might not be aware of By addressing these issues early, you give yourself the best chance of securing the mortgage you need. A pre-approval makes sure there are no surprises along the way. Pre-Approval vs. Pre-Qualification: What’s the Difference? It’s important to understand that a pre-approval is more than just a quick online estimate. Unlike pre-qualification—which can sometimes be based on limited information and calculations—a pre-approval involves a thorough review of your finances. This includes looking at your credit report, providing detailed documents, and having a conversation with a mortgage professional about your options. Why Get Pre-Approved Now? The best time to secure a pre-approval is as soon as possible. The process is free and carries no risk—it just gives you a clear path forward. It’s never too early to start, and by doing so, you’ll be in a much stronger position when you're ready to make an offer on your dream home. Let’s Make Your Home Buying Journey Smooth A well-planned mortgage process can make all the difference in securing your home. If you’re ready to get pre-approved or just want to chat about your options, I’d love to help. Let’s make your home-buying experience a smooth and successful one!