How (Not) to Consolidate Debt

Diane Buchanan • March 2, 2017

By Sandi Martin of Spring Personal Finance.

The point: it doesn’t matter what method you use to pay off debt, or if you use any method at all. What matters is that you stop creating new debt.

It’s out there: the mathematically precise, strictly rational formula for paying off your three credit cards, small car loan, and fluid line of credit balance. It’s not too hard to calculate the most efficient way to allocate every dollar and wring the most interest-busting bang out of each buck.

If that doesn’t work for you – and let’s be honest, it often doesn’t  – there’s a psychologically motivating method that throws math out the window and concentrates on tickling your brainpan with the momentum of every dollar that’s paid off – like the eponymous snowball rolling down a hill.

Proponents of these two camps are territorial and permanently at odds. (I’m just spitballing here, but I imagine it has to do with not being able to live inside somebody else’s brain and see how it works, like so many other disputes.)

Frankly, I don’t care how you pay off debt, so long as you simultaneously stop creating more.

Enter debt consolidation. Often a polarizing bone of contention between the two camps, debt consolidation – for those three of you in the back of the room unfamiliar with the concept – is when a lender gives you the money to pay back all of your other debt that’s scattered across the country and pay them back instead. They win by getting a new loan on the books, and stealing market share from the competition. You win by bringing down your overall interest rate.

What’s to argue with, right?

This is what to argue with: there’s a teeny-tiny window of opportunity in which debt consolidation is a powerful tool to bring your debt-free date closer and eat vast chunks out of the total amount of interest you’ll pay. That window of opportunity is open for about half an hour, and when it closes, it’s so hard to reopen that it might as well be painted shut.

If from the outset you don’t commit to a payment that is equal to or more than the amount you were paying on your unconsolidated debt, and that will get your three credit cards, small car loan, and fluid line of credit paid off in less time than they were originally amortized for, then you’re not paying down your debt, you’re just moving it around.

If you don’t take a long, hard look at how you got into debt in the first place, and – from minute one of your newly consolidated life – take measured, calculated steps to not do it again, those credit card balances are going to creep back up again. You’ll find yourself in the same office, maybe even in front of the same banker, signing a new set of loan papers for a new consolidation loan three years down the road.

I began my career in banking in the heyday of debt consolidation lending. The amount of new unsecured dollars added to our lending portfolio was a huge component of our sales scorecard, and while the focus shifted to include a wider spectrum of  product sales after 2008, banks are still hungry for your debt consolidation dollars. *

Folks, I’ve seen a lot of debt consolidation train wrecks, and about five of them where due to circumstances beyond the borrower’s control. The other 7,256,219 were due to the window slamming shut, either because the borrower didn’t know or didn’t care about it.

I’d love to blame the bank for it (you know I would), but I can’t. Yes, the banker you sit across from has incentive to talk you into stupid stuff that’ll not only shut the window of opportunity, but nail it closed and board it up too. (“Increasing your cash flow” is a phrase that comes to mind.)

But down in the land of brass tacks, you just signed a loan to pay off other loans. If you weren’t thinking about how you got to this point at this point, when else are you going to think about it?

If it was important enough to you to take action, why isn’t it important enough to change your behaviour?

* They’d like those dollars to be in the form of a secured line of credit, though, and will sell you on the fact that you can consolidate again and again and again, without ever having to go back into the bank to do it.

This article was written by Sandi Martin of Spring Personal Finance and originally appeared on Spring the Blog here. 

DIANE BUCHANAN
 Mortgage Broker

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Going Through a Divorce? Don’t Let Your Credit Take the Hit

By Diane Buchanan • August 26, 2026
Going Through a Divorce? Don’t Let Your Credit Take the Hit Divorce is stressful enough without adding financial fallout to the mix. Between lawyers, paperwork, and emotional strain, it’s easy to overlook how a separation can impact your credit. But your financial future depends on protecting it now—because long after the dust settles, a damaged credit score can linger. Here are a few smart steps to help keep your credit strong and your finances steady as you move forward. 1. Take Control of Joint Debts When it comes to joint debt, both parties are equally responsible—no matter what your divorce agreement says. If your ex misses a payment on an account with your name attached, your credit takes the hit too. Go through all joint credit cards, loans, and lines of credit. Wherever possible: Close joint accounts to stop future shared use. Transfer balances to the person responsible for repayment. Notify lenders in writing of any changes to account ownership. Once everything is updated, pull your credit report after three to six months to confirm all joint accounts have been closed and reporting correctly. Mistakes happen—stay proactive to prevent surprises later. 2. Open Your Own Bank Accounts Separation means financial independence, and that starts with your own banking. Open a new chequing account in your name only and redirect your pay deposits and bill payments there. At the same time, close any joint bank accounts and change passwords on existing online banking and credit profiles. Even in peaceful separations, shared access can cause confusion—or conflict. Protect yourself by ensuring your money and information are secure. 3. Start Building Credit in Your Name If most of your past credit was tied to your spouse’s name, now’s the time to establish your own. Apply for a small personal credit card or secured credit product . Use it sparingly and pay it off in full each month. This helps you build a solid individual credit history, setting the stage for future goals like buying a home, refinancing, or starting fresh financially. 4. Keep an Eye on Your Credit Monitor your credit report regularly for errors or unexpected changes. You can request free reports from both major credit bureaus in Canada— Equifax and TransUnion —once a year. Tracking your credit isn’t just about catching mistakes; it helps you see your progress as you rebuild your financial independence. Final Thoughts Divorce can be emotionally draining, but protecting your credit doesn’t have to be complicated. By taking a few careful steps now—closing joint accounts, building credit in your name, and monitoring your reports—you’ll safeguard your financial health and gain peace of mind as you start your next chapter. If you’d like personalized guidance on managing credit during or after a divorce, reach out anytime. I’d be happy to walk you through your options.

Employment and Mortgage Qualification: What Lenders Look For

By Diane Buchanan • August 19, 2026
When you apply for a mortgage, your employment history and status carry a lot of weight. Even if you feel secure in your job, lenders need proof that your income is reliable and will continue. To them, your employment status is one of the strongest indicators of whether you can make your mortgage payments long term. Here’s how lenders typically view different employment situations: Permanent Employment This is the gold standard. Once you’ve passed any probationary period and hold permanent status, lenders see you as a lower risk. It shows that your employer is committed to you, and your income is steady. Probationary Periods If you’re still on probation—usually 3 to 6 months, though sometimes longer—lenders may hesitate. That’s because your employer can end your contract without cause during this period. Once probation is over, you’re considered more secure. That said, context matters. If you’ve worked with the same company for years as a contractor and just transitioned into full-time employment, lenders may accept a letter from your employer confirming that probation is waived. Documentation is key here. Parental Leave Being on or about to take parental leave doesn’t mean you can’t qualify for a mortgage. As long as you have a letter from your employer guaranteeing your position and return-to-work date, lenders can use your regular salary—not your leave income—when assessing your application. Term Contracts This is one of the trickiest categories. Even highly skilled professionals with strong incomes can face challenges here. A term contract has a start and end date, which makes lenders question the stability of your future income. To use term-contract income, lenders generally want to see at least two years of history, or proof that your contract has already been renewed. The more evidence you can show of consistent employment, the stronger your case will be. The Bottom Line If you’re planning to apply for a mortgage, it’s important to understand how your employment status could affect your approval. Whether you’re starting a new job, coming back from leave, or working under contract, lenders want documentation that proves your income is reliable. 📞 If you’ve recently changed jobs or are planning a career shift, let’s connect. I can help you prepare your file so you qualify with confidence and avoid surprises in the approval process.