How (Not) to Consolidate Debt

Diane Buchanan • March 2, 2017

By Sandi Martin of Spring Personal Finance.

The point: it doesn’t matter what method you use to pay off debt, or if you use any method at all. What matters is that you stop creating new debt.

It’s out there: the mathematically precise, strictly rational formula for paying off your three credit cards, small car loan, and fluid line of credit balance. It’s not too hard to calculate the most efficient way to allocate every dollar and wring the most interest-busting bang out of each buck.

If that doesn’t work for you – and let’s be honest, it often doesn’t  – there’s a psychologically motivating method that throws math out the window and concentrates on tickling your brainpan with the momentum of every dollar that’s paid off – like the eponymous snowball rolling down a hill.

Proponents of these two camps are territorial and permanently at odds. (I’m just spitballing here, but I imagine it has to do with not being able to live inside somebody else’s brain and see how it works, like so many other disputes.)

Frankly, I don’t care how you pay off debt, so long as you simultaneously stop creating more.

Enter debt consolidation. Often a polarizing bone of contention between the two camps, debt consolidation – for those three of you in the back of the room unfamiliar with the concept – is when a lender gives you the money to pay back all of your other debt that’s scattered across the country and pay them back instead. They win by getting a new loan on the books, and stealing market share from the competition. You win by bringing down your overall interest rate.

What’s to argue with, right?

This is what to argue with: there’s a teeny-tiny window of opportunity in which debt consolidation is a powerful tool to bring your debt-free date closer and eat vast chunks out of the total amount of interest you’ll pay. That window of opportunity is open for about half an hour, and when it closes, it’s so hard to reopen that it might as well be painted shut.

If from the outset you don’t commit to a payment that is equal to or more than the amount you were paying on your unconsolidated debt, and that will get your three credit cards, small car loan, and fluid line of credit paid off in less time than they were originally amortized for, then you’re not paying down your debt, you’re just moving it around.

If you don’t take a long, hard look at how you got into debt in the first place, and – from minute one of your newly consolidated life – take measured, calculated steps to not do it again, those credit card balances are going to creep back up again. You’ll find yourself in the same office, maybe even in front of the same banker, signing a new set of loan papers for a new consolidation loan three years down the road.

I began my career in banking in the heyday of debt consolidation lending. The amount of new unsecured dollars added to our lending portfolio was a huge component of our sales scorecard, and while the focus shifted to include a wider spectrum of  product sales after 2008, banks are still hungry for your debt consolidation dollars. *

Folks, I’ve seen a lot of debt consolidation train wrecks, and about five of them where due to circumstances beyond the borrower’s control. The other 7,256,219 were due to the window slamming shut, either because the borrower didn’t know or didn’t care about it.

I’d love to blame the bank for it (you know I would), but I can’t. Yes, the banker you sit across from has incentive to talk you into stupid stuff that’ll not only shut the window of opportunity, but nail it closed and board it up too. (“Increasing your cash flow” is a phrase that comes to mind.)

But down in the land of brass tacks, you just signed a loan to pay off other loans. If you weren’t thinking about how you got to this point at this point, when else are you going to think about it?

If it was important enough to you to take action, why isn’t it important enough to change your behaviour?

* They’d like those dollars to be in the form of a secured line of credit, though, and will sell you on the fact that you can consolidate again and again and again, without ever having to go back into the bank to do it.

This article was written by Sandi Martin of Spring Personal Finance and originally appeared on Spring the Blog here. 

DIANE BUCHANAN
 Mortgage Broker

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Going Through A Divorce? Protect your Credit

By Diane Buchanan • August 13, 2025
Divorces are challenging as there’s a lot to think about in a short amount of time, usually under pressure. And while handling finances is often at the forefront of the discussions related to the separation of assets, unfortunately, managing and maintaining personal credit can be swept aside to deal with later. So, if you happen to be going through or preparing for a divorce or separation, here are a few considerations that will help keep your credit and finances on track. The goal is to avoid significant setbacks as you look to rebuild your life. Manage Your Joint Debt If you have joint debt, you are both 100% responsible for that debt, which means that even if your ex-spouse has the legal responsibility to pay the debt, if your name is on the debt, you can be held responsible for the payments. Any financial obligation with your name on the account that falls into arrears will negatively impact your credit score, regardless of who is legally responsible for making the payments. A divorce settlement doesn’t mean anything to the lender. The last thing you want is for your ex-spouse’s poor financial management to negatively impact your credit score for the next six to seven years. Go through all your joint credit accounts, and if possible, cancel them and have the remaining balance transferred into a loan or credit card in the name of whoever will be responsible for the remaining debt. If possible, you should eliminate all joint debts. Now, it’s a good idea to check your credit report about three to six months after making the changes to ensure everything all joint debts have been closed and everything is reporting as it should be. It’s not uncommon for there to be errors on credit reports. Manage Your Bank Accounts Just as you should separate all your joint credit accounts, it’s a good idea to open a checking account in your name and start making all deposits there as soon as possible. You’ll want to set up the automatic withdrawals for the expenses and utilities you’ll be responsible for going forward in your own account. At the same time, you’ll want to close any joint bank accounts you have with your ex-spouse and gain exclusive access to any assets you have. It’s unfortunate, but even in the most amicable situations, money (or lack thereof) can cause people to make bad decisions; you want to protect yourself by protecting your assets. While opening new accounts, chances are your ex-spouse knows your passwords to online banking and might even know the pin to your bank card. Take this time to change all your passwords to something completely new, don’t just default to what you’ve used in the past. Better safe than sorry. Setup New Credit in Your Name There might be a chance that you’ve never had credit in your name alone or that you were a secondary signer on your ex-spouse’s credit card. If this is the case, it would be prudent to set up a small credit card in your name. Don’t worry about the limit; the goal is to get something in your name alone. Down the road, you can change things and work towards establishing a solid credit profile. If you have any questions about managing your credit through a divorce, please don’t hesitate to connect anytime. It would be a pleasure to work with you.

How Employment Status Impacts Your Mortgage Application

By Diane Buchanan • August 6, 2025
Chances are if you’re applying for a mortgage, you feel confident about the state of your current employment or your ability to find a similar position if you need to. However, your actual employment status probably means more to the lender than you might think. You see, to a lender, your employment status is a strong indicator of your employer’s commitment to your continued employment. So, regardless of how you feel about your position, it’s what can be proven on paper that matters most. Let’s walk through some of the common ways lenders can look at employment status. Permanent Employment The gold star of employment. If your employer has made you a permanent employee, it means that your position is as secure as any position can be. When a lender sees permanent status (passed probation), it gives them the confidence that you’re valuable to the company and that they can rely on your income. Probationary Period Despite the quality of your job, if you’ve only been with the company for a short while, you’ll be required to prove that you’ve passed any probationary period. Although most probationary periods are typically 3-6 months, they can be longer. You might now even be aware that you’re under probation. The lender will want to make sure that you’re not under a probationary period because your employment can be terminated without any cause while under probation. Once you’ve made it through your initial evaluation, the lender will be more confident in your employment status. Now, it’s not the length of time with the employer that the lender is scrutinizing; instead, it’s the status of your probation. So if you’ve only been with a company for one month, but you’ve been working with them as a contractor for a few years, and they’re willing to waive the probationary period based on a previous relationship, that should give the lender all the confidence they need. We’ll have to get that documented. Parental Leave Suppose you’re currently on, planning to be on, or just about to be done a parental leave, regardless of the income you’re now collecting, as long as you have an employment letter that outlines your guaranteed return to work position (and date). In that case, you can use your return to work income to qualify on your mortgage application. It’s not the parental leave that the lender has issues with; it’s the ability you have to return to the position you left. Term Contracts Term contracts are hands down the most ambiguous and misunderstood employment status as it’s usually well-qualified and educated individuals who are working excellent jobs with no documented proof of future employment. A term contract indicates that you have a start date and an end date, and you are paid a specific amount for that specified amount of time. Unfortunately, the lack of stability here is not a lot for a lender to go on when evaluating your long-term ability to repay your mortgage. So to qualify income on a term contract, you want to establish the income you’ve received for at least two years. However, sometimes lenders like to see that your contract has been renewed at least once before considering it as income towards your mortgage application. In summary If you’ve recently changed jobs or are thinking about making a career change, and qualifying for a mortgage is on the horizon, or if you have any questions at all, please connect anytime. We can work through the details together and make sure you have a plan in place. It would be a pleasure to work with you!