How (Not) to Consolidate Debt

Diane Buchanan • March 2, 2017

By Sandi Martin of Spring Personal Finance.

The point: it doesn’t matter what method you use to pay off debt, or if you use any method at all. What matters is that you stop creating new debt.

It’s out there: the mathematically precise, strictly rational formula for paying off your three credit cards, small car loan, and fluid line of credit balance. It’s not too hard to calculate the most efficient way to allocate every dollar and wring the most interest-busting bang out of each buck.

If that doesn’t work for you – and let’s be honest, it often doesn’t  – there’s a psychologically motivating method that throws math out the window and concentrates on tickling your brainpan with the momentum of every dollar that’s paid off – like the eponymous snowball rolling down a hill.

Proponents of these two camps are territorial and permanently at odds. (I’m just spitballing here, but I imagine it has to do with not being able to live inside somebody else’s brain and see how it works, like so many other disputes.)

Frankly, I don’t care how you pay off debt, so long as you simultaneously stop creating more.

Enter debt consolidation. Often a polarizing bone of contention between the two camps, debt consolidation – for those three of you in the back of the room unfamiliar with the concept – is when a lender gives you the money to pay back all of your other debt that’s scattered across the country and pay them back instead. They win by getting a new loan on the books, and stealing market share from the competition. You win by bringing down your overall interest rate.

What’s to argue with, right?

This is what to argue with: there’s a teeny-tiny window of opportunity in which debt consolidation is a powerful tool to bring your debt-free date closer and eat vast chunks out of the total amount of interest you’ll pay. That window of opportunity is open for about half an hour, and when it closes, it’s so hard to reopen that it might as well be painted shut.

If from the outset you don’t commit to a payment that is equal to or more than the amount you were paying on your unconsolidated debt, and that will get your three credit cards, small car loan, and fluid line of credit paid off in less time than they were originally amortized for, then you’re not paying down your debt, you’re just moving it around.

If you don’t take a long, hard look at how you got into debt in the first place, and – from minute one of your newly consolidated life – take measured, calculated steps to not do it again, those credit card balances are going to creep back up again. You’ll find yourself in the same office, maybe even in front of the same banker, signing a new set of loan papers for a new consolidation loan three years down the road.

I began my career in banking in the heyday of debt consolidation lending. The amount of new unsecured dollars added to our lending portfolio was a huge component of our sales scorecard, and while the focus shifted to include a wider spectrum of  product sales after 2008, banks are still hungry for your debt consolidation dollars. *

Folks, I’ve seen a lot of debt consolidation train wrecks, and about five of them where due to circumstances beyond the borrower’s control. The other 7,256,219 were due to the window slamming shut, either because the borrower didn’t know or didn’t care about it.

I’d love to blame the bank for it (you know I would), but I can’t. Yes, the banker you sit across from has incentive to talk you into stupid stuff that’ll not only shut the window of opportunity, but nail it closed and board it up too. (“Increasing your cash flow” is a phrase that comes to mind.)

But down in the land of brass tacks, you just signed a loan to pay off other loans. If you weren’t thinking about how you got to this point at this point, when else are you going to think about it?

If it was important enough to you to take action, why isn’t it important enough to change your behaviour?

* They’d like those dollars to be in the form of a secured line of credit, though, and will sell you on the fact that you can consolidate again and again and again, without ever having to go back into the bank to do it.

This article was written by Sandi Martin of Spring Personal Finance and originally appeared on Spring the Blog here. 

DIANE BUCHANAN
 Mortgage Broker

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Smart Strategies to Save for Your Down Payment

By Diane Buchanan • November 26, 2025
How to Start Saving for a Down Payment (Without Overhauling Your Life) Let’s face it—saving money isn’t always easy. Life is expensive, and setting aside extra cash takes discipline and a clear plan. Whether your goal is to buy your first home or make a move to something new, building up a down payment is one of the biggest financial hurdles. The good news? You don’t have to do it alone—and it might be simpler than you think. Step 1: Know Your Numbers Before you can start saving, you need to know where you stand. That means getting clear on two things: how much money you bring in and how much of it is going out. Figure out your monthly income. Use your net (after-tax) income, not your gross. If you’re self-employed or your income fluctuates, take an average over the last few months. Don’t forget to include occasional income like tax returns, bonuses, or government benefits. Track your spending. Go through your last 2–3 months of bank and credit card statements. List out your regular bills (rent, phone, groceries), then your extras (dining out, subscriptions, impulse buys). You might be surprised where your money’s going. This part isn’t always fun—but it’s empowering. You can’t change what you don’t see. Step 2: Create a Plan That Works for You Once you have the full picture, it’s time to make a plan. The basic formula for saving is simple: Spend less than you earn. Save the difference. But in real life, it’s more about small adjustments than major sacrifices. Cut what doesn’t matter. Cancel unused subscriptions or set a dining-out limit. Automate your savings. Set up a separate “down payment” account and auto-transfer money on payday—even if it’s just $50. Find ways to boost your income. Can you pick up a side job, sell unused stuff, or ask for a raise? Consistency matters more than big chunks. Start small and build momentum. Step 3: Think Bigger Than Just Saving A lot of people assume saving for a down payment is the first—and only—step toward buying a home. But there’s more to it. When you apply for a mortgage, lenders look at: Your income Your debt Your credit score Your down payment That means even while you’re saving, you can (and should) be doing things like: Building your credit score Paying down high-interest debt Gathering documents for pre-approval That’s where we come in. Step 4: Get Advice Early Saving up for a home doesn’t have to be a solo mission. In fact, talking to a mortgage professional early in the process can help you avoid missteps and reach your goal faster. We can: Help you calculate how much you actually need to save Offer tips to strengthen your application while you save Explore alternate down payment options (like gifts or programs for first-time buyers) Build a step-by-step plan to get you mortgage-ready Ready to get serious about buying a home? We’d love to help you build a plan that fits your life—and your goals. Reach out anytime for a no-pressure conversation.

How Do You Port a Mortgage?

By Diane Buchanan • November 19, 2025
Porting your mortgage is when you transfer the remainder of your current mortgage term, outstanding principal balance, and interest rate to a new property if you’re selling your existing home and buying a new one. Now, despite what some big banks would lead you to believe, porting your mortgage is not an easy process. It’s not a magic process that guarantees you will qualify to purchase a new property using the mortgage you had on a previous property. In addition to re-qualifying for the mortgage you already have, the lender will also assess the property you’re looking to purchase. Many moving parts come into play. You’re more likely to have significant setbacks throughout the process than you are to execute a flawless port. Here are some of the reasons: You may not qualify for the mortgage Let’s say you’re moving to a new city to take a new job. If you’re relying on porting your mortgage to buy a new property, you’ll have to substantiate your new income. If you’re on probation or changed professions, there’s a chance the lender will decline your application. Porting a mortgage is a lot like qualifying for a new mortgage, just with more conditions. The property you are buying has to be approved So let’s say that your income isn’t an issue and that you qualify for the mortgage. The subject property you want to purchase has to be approved as well. Just because the lender accepted your last property as collateral for the mortgage doesn’t mean the lender will accept the new property. The lender will require an appraisal and scrutinize the condition of the property you’re looking to buy. Property values are rarely the same Chances are, if you’re selling a property and buying a new one, there’ll be some price difference. When looking to port a mortgage, if the new property’s value is higher than your previous property, requiring a higher mortgage amount, you’ll most likely have to take a blended rate on the new money, which could increase your payment. If the property value is considerably less, you might incur a penalty to reduce the total mortgage amount. You still need a downpayment Porting a mortgage isn’t just a simple case of swapping one property for another while keeping the same mortgage. You’re still required to come up with a downpayment on the new property. You’ll most likely have to pay a penalty Most lenders will charge the total discharge penalty when you sell your property and take it from the sale proceeds. The penalty is then refunded when you execute the port and purchase the new property. So if you are relying on the proceeds of sale to come up with your downpayment, you might have to make other arrangements. Timelines rarely work out When assessing the housing market, It’s usually a buyer’s market or a seller’s market, not both at the same time. So although you may be able to sell your property overnight, you might not be able to find a suitable property to buy. Alternatively, you may be able to find many suitable properties to purchase while your house sits on the market with no showings. And, chances are, when you end up selling your property and find a new property to buy, the closing dates rarely match up perfectly. Different lenders have different port periods Understanding that different lenders have different port periods is where the fine print in the mortgage documents comes into play. Did you know that depending on the lender, the time you have to port your mortgage can range from one day to six months? So if it’s one day, your lawyer will have to close both the sale of your property and the purchase of your new property on the same day, or the port won’t work. Or, with a more extended port period, you run the risk of selling your house with the intention of porting the mortgage, only to not be able to find a suitable property to buy. So while the idea of porting your mortgage can seem like a good idea, and it might even make sense if you have a low rate that you want to carry over to a property of similar value, it’s always a good idea to get professional mortgage advice and look at all your options. While porting your mortgage is a nice feature to have because it provides you with options, please understand that it is not a guarantee that you’ll be able to swap out properties and keep making the same payments. There’s a lot to know. If you’re looking to sell your existing property and buy a new one, please connect anytime. It would be a pleasure to walk you through the process and help you consider all your options, including a port if that makes the most sense!